Why Indian Women Wore Kamarbandh During Pregnancy, And How Priyanka Chopra Is Bringing Back The Tradition

Kamarbandh – An Accessory That Never Really Left

Kamarbandh is a crafted metal ornament tied around the waist. It derives from kamar, meaning waist and bandh, which is to tie. Historically, the term was used interchangeably with Patka (cloth girdle) and Mekhḷa (jewelled waistband).
While patkas were typically fabric, kamarbandhs evolved into elaborate metal jewellery featuring: Gold filigree, kundan work, polki diamonds, pearls, temple motifs and beads and bells.

For centuries, the kamarbandh was more than an adornment. It marked life transitions, celebrated fertility and symbolised feminine energy. In ancient India, it rested intentionally on the yoni-garbha sthan- the sacred energy point associated with creation, abundance and prosperity.

Whether it was queens in temple carvings, dancers in ancient courts or brides preparing for marriage, the waistband was seen as a blessing, a protective belt and a celebration of womanhood itself. During the British rule, what was once sacred was labelled as ‘indecent.’
Indian women were encouraged or sometimes shamed into abandoning the ornament.

In an ironic twist, the same British officials who dismissed this jewel adopted a version of the waistband into their own formal attire, renaming it “cummerbund.” Over time, the kamarbandh faded from everyday Indian life, surviving mostly in ritual spaces, classical dance and bridal fashion. But with one red-carpet appearance, Priyanka Chopra Jonas may have unknowingly nudged it back into the cultural spotlight.

The Ancient Symbol Of Fertility

Long before the kamarbandh became a fashion accessory, the kamarbandh served a spiritual, symbolic and practical purpose. In ancient Indian philosophy, the waist represented stability, strength and the centre of physical energy. The ornament rested directly over the yoni-garbha sthan. The energetic point associated with reproduction and the creative force of life.

In sculptures across India, from the yakshis of Bharhut to the apsaras of Sanchi and the celestial figures carved into temple walls, women are depicted wearing beautifully crafted waistbands, often layered with jewels, bells, and intricate metalwork.

They were not just embellishments; they signified sensuality, fertility, wealth, and divine feminine energy. Even goddesses were adorned with them, reinforcing the kamarbandh as a sacred element in the visual language of Indian femininity.

Why Women Wore It During Pregnancy?

In many regions, women wore kamarbandhs during pregnancy for reasons that blended spirituality with everyday wellbeing:

Symbol of Protection– The waistband was believed to protect both the mother and the unborn child by strengthening the energetic core of the body.

Support for Posture– Traditional kamarbandhs offered gentle support to the lower back and abdominal region, helping maintain posture as the body changed.

Blessing for Fertility and Prosperity– Families gifted expectant mothers jewelled waistbands during rituals celebrating pregnancy, symbolising abundance and the arrival of new life.

Celebration of Womanhood– The ornament was a physical and symbolic embrace of a woman’s role as a life-giver. Thus, wearing a kamarbandh during pregnancy was less about fashion and more about honouring creation itself.

Colonialism and The Shaming Of Indian Ornaments

The decline of the kamarbandh began in the 18th century, when the British imposed Victorian sensibilities onto Indian society. Waist jewellery, especially that which highlighted the midriff, was viewed as immodest by colonial rulers. This judgement slowly seeped into urban Indian society, causing women to abandon many traditional ornaments in public life.

The kamarbandh, once a symbol of pride, became associated with vulgarity. In a cultural twist, British officers in India began incorporating kamarbandh into their uniforms. They loved its practicality; it held weapons, flattened the waist, and added elegance to evening dress.

They renamed it “cummerbund,” the Hindu word Kamarbandh, and it eventually became a staple of men’s formalwear across the West. What was deemed “indecent” for Indian women became “elite” for British men.

The Roots of Kamarbandh

The Kamarbandh is mentioned across centuries-old literature, revealing its long cultural evidence. The ornament was mentioned in Manasollasa (12th century CE) describes waistbands as key elements of both male and female attire. Ratnavali (7th century CE) depicts princes securing their swords into their pattikah or waist belt.

Archaeological Depictions

Bharhut (2nd century BCE) features both men and women wearing cloth or jewelled waistbands.
Sanchi (1st century BCE–1st century CE) contains carvings of figures tying patkas around their waists, often in elaborate loops.

Foreign Visitor Accounts

Travellers like Francois Bernier and Rev. Edward Terry described richly woven kamarbands worn in the Mughal court, some embroidered with gold, others holding weapons or ceremonial items.

Colonial Military Use

British-led Indian sepoys in the 18th and 19th centuries wore coloured kamarbands as part of their uniforms, proving how deeply the accessory was embedded in Indian visual identity.

The Return of A Forgotten Ornament

India is witnessing a resurgence of traditional jewellery, from nose rings and maang tikas to temple necklaces and kamarbandhs. Modern brides, fashion stylists and designers are turning toward heritage pieces, blending old charm with contemporary silhouettes.

Why Is Kamarbandh Making A Comeback?

• They pair well with sarees, lehengas, gowns, and Indo-fusion outfits.
• They elevate the waistline gracefully.
• They honour Indian tradition in a world that increasingly values cultural authenticity.
• The kamarbandh today is no longer restricted to brides. Influencers, models, classical dancers, and even maternity photoshoots have embraced it.

Beyond its historical and symbolic significance, the Kamarbandh stands as a symbol of craftsmanship. Traditional pieces often incorporate temple designs, miniature sculptures of deities, and detailed depictions of flora and fauna.

• Kundan kamarbandhs reflect Mughal-era opulence.
• Pearl kamarbandhs evoke coastal South Indian elegance.
• Beaded kamarbandhs bring vibrant folk energy.
• Metal kamarbandhs present ancient royal aesthetics.

Why Priyanka Chopra’s Look Matters

Priyanka Chopra’s appearance at the Hyderabad Globe Trotters event was more than a fashion moment. Her choice to wear a traditional kamarbandh styled by Anamika Khanna reintroduced an almost forgotten ornament to a global audience.

She wore an ivory lehenga saree hybrid, gold detailed structured borders, a sweetheart neckline embellished blouse, a multi-layered kundan and pearl choker, gold bangles, and a maang tika. At the centre of it all, a crafted pearl kamarbandh, subtle yet regal.

Why It Resonated

Visibility– Priyanka’s fans and millions of fashion enthusiasts saw the photographs, even if many missed the waistband itself. But those who noticed felt the cultural nostalgia instantly.
Revival– Fashion cycles often revive forgotten ornaments. But when someone like Priyanka Chopra wears it, the revival reaches a global stage.
Symbolism– The kamarbandh’s association with fertility and divine feminine energy gave the look a deeper layer.
Reclaiming Heritage– What colonialism once labelled inappropriate is being reclaimed with pride.

Digital Revival Of Kamarbandh

Online marketplaces and artisanal platforms have made the ornament accessible again. Consumers can choose from:

• Bridal kamarbandhs
• Minimal waist chains
• Temple-belt styles
• Contemporary gemstone-studded pieces

As more Indian designers lean into heritage revival, the kamarbandh is becoming a staple of modern ethnic fashion.

Priyanka Chopra’s kamarbandh was not just an accessory but a symbol. Her choice has sparked conversations about history, femininity and a forgotten tradition that once honoured pregnancy, creation and prosperity. As the kamarbandh makes its way back into mainstream fashion, women are rediscovering not just its beauty but its meaning.