Peptides vs retinol — which one’s actually better for your skin?

Retinoids have long been popular for their ability to both speed up skin cell turnover and stimulate collagen production, contributing to firmer, smoother skin over time. But they can come with some uncomfortable drawbacks, including dryness and flakiness — especially for those with sensitive skin. One alternative that doctors recommend is peptides. Not only are they generally gentle, but they can offer a wide variety of benefits for skin. Depending on the type of peptide(s) in your skin care, they can help smooth fine lines, soften wrinkles and even improve skin barrier function, without the drawbacks that come with other ingredients, such as retinoids.

To help you choose the right products with peptides, we spoke to three board-certified dermatologists about what to look for in a formula and who should be using them.

SKIP AHEAD How we picked the best peptide products | The best peptide products of 2024 

What is a Peptide?

Peptides are naturally found within skin. For context: Amino acids are the building blocks in the body. A chain of amino acids is a peptide, and a chain of peptides forms a protein, according to New York, NY-based board-certified dermatologist Gloria Lin, M.D. Peptides are involved in many different functions in skin, including stimulating tissue production and supporting wound healing, according to Lin. 

How we picked the best peptide products

The best peptide products can address various skin concerns and fit into different steps of your skin care routine, depending on the formulation and exact type of peptides. Here’s what to consider when you’re shopping:

• Types of peptides: Manufacturers use four types of peptides in skin care, and they work in different ways within skin to carry out different functions (like relaxing muscles and encouraging collagen production).
• Other ingredients: Peptides pair well with hydrating ingredients, antioxidants and retinoids. These can complement their benefits.
• Product category: You can find peptides in cleansers and masks, but they’re most effective in formulas that remain on your skin, such as face serums and moisturizers.

The best peptide products of 2024

SkinBetter Science InterFuse Treatment Cream

“This cream employs a novel approach by delivering a high peptide concentration deep into the skin, making it impactful in reducing wrinkles and lines,” says Danilo Del Campo, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, IL. The lightweight formula has two types of peptides: Messenger peptides instruct cells to create more collagen and elastin, while neuropeptides minimize muscle movement to smooth the appearance of lines, according to the brand.

Alastin Daily Restorative Cream

This face cream is a go-to for Lauren Fine, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, IL. “It’s super easy to use and not drying or irritating,” she says, noting that it also layers nicely beneath sunscreen and makeup. It has antioxidants to defend skin against environmental aggressors, as well as a peptides that can restore volume to skin and help create and maintain new collagen and elastin, according to the brand.

Cetaphil Healthy Renew Face Serum

Del Campo says this line is a good option “for those seeking cost-effective and potent peptide formulations that are suitable even for sensitive skin.” Billed as an alternative to retinoids, it also has niacinamide and panthenol to help brighten and condition skin, respectively, according to the brand. It’s also hypoallergenic and fragrance-free.

Paula’s Choice Pro-Collagen Multi-Peptide Booster

Lin likes that this formula has six signal peptides, all of which work to stimulate collagen production. On top of that, she says, it also has hyaluronic acid to improve hydration.The fragrance-free formula will also sink into skin quickly and can address fine lines like crow’s feet, according to the brand.

Revision Skincare D·E·J Daily Boosting Serum

This serum has it all, counting omega-3 fatty acids, antioxidants and a brightening peptide to improve the skin barrier and even out skin tone, according to the brand. It’s a good option if you find other ingredients to be too irritating, says Fine. “Products that contain both peptides and antioxidants can be ideal for people who have dry or sensitive skin and cannot tolerate acids or retinoids in their daily routine,” she says.

Medik8 Liquid Peptides

This formula has a 30% concentration of 10 different peptides, as well as hyaluronic acid for hydration and plump skin in the short term, according to Lin. “It does contain copper peptide and carnosine, so it can be helpful for collagen production, wound healing and protection against free radical formation,” she says. You can use it morning and night, and it works well when you pair it with retinoids, according to the brand.

Neocutis Bio Serum Firm

This is a favorite of both Fine and Dr. Gabriela Soza, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Wexler Dermatology in New York City, who uses it in her own routine. Fine likes that in addition to using both growth factors and peptides, it’s “excellent for maintaining a healthy skin barrier and hydration,” she says. It also targets both fine lines and uneven or dull skin tone, according to the brand.

Biossance Squalane + Hyaluronic Acid Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum

Ideal for dry skin types, this serum uses hyaluronic acid and squalane to add additional hydration to skin and offer a plumping effect, making it a favorite of Lin. Plus, she says, “the copper peptide helps with collagen and elastin production.” You can use it morning and night, but keep in mind that it doesn’t pair well with vitamin C or alpha hydroxy acids, as these will reduce the efficacy of the peptide, according to the brand.

The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + Copper Peptides 1% Serum

Peptides can be an investment, but this formula comes at a more approachable price point, says Lin. It also uses “five different peptides, including a copper peptide, to help stimulate the production of collagen and elastin,” she says. It also has hyaluronic acid and amino acids, and you can use it twice a day.

Drunk Elephant Protini Powerpeptide Resurfacing Serum

Lin likes that this formula uses lactic acid alongside signal peptides, saying that the acid can enhance the penetration of those peptides into skin. However, it “might not be suitable for more sensitive skin types due to the lactic acid,” she says. “This can be drying and irritating.” It also has hyaluronic acid, squalane and marula oil, and the formula is vegan, cruelty-free and fragrance-free.

How to shop for skin care products with peptides 

When shopping, keep in mind that different peptides execute different functions in skin. The two most common types of peptides in skin care formulas are signal and carrier peptides, says Lin. 

“Signal peptides could include palmitoyl tripeptide, tetrapeptides, pentapeptides, and hexapeptides, along with carnosine, which also has antioxidant properties,” she says. Meanwhile, carrier peptides include ingredients like copper tripeptide and manganese tripeptide. They can usher other actives where they’re needed for collagen and elastin production, wound healing and other benefits.

Pairing peptides with other active ingredients can also amplify their benefits, says Del Campo; these include antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid, a humectant that draws water into skin. “Pairing peptides with hydrating substances can enhance moisture levels, while antioxidants provide protection against environmental damage,” he says. He also recommends using them alongside ceramides and niacinamide; the three can work together to fortify the skin barrier.

Finally, Lin recommends seeking out peptides in serums and moisturizers, as they “may have superior penetration,” she says. “These have prolonged contact with the skin compared to cleansers or other products that are meant to be washed off.”

Meet our experts

At NBC Select, we work with experts who have specialized knowledge and authority based on relevant training and/or experience. We also take steps to ensure all expert advice and recommendations are made independently and without undisclosed financial conflicts of interest. 

• Danilo Del Campo, M.D., FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, IL, whose specialities include cosmetic dermatology and medical dermatology.
• Gloria Lin, M.D., FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology in New York, N .
• Lauren Fine, M.D., FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Chicago, IL, whose research interests include adult female acne, acne scarring and hair loss.

Why trust NBC Select?

Deanna Pai is a freelance beauty writer and editor who has been covering beauty and health for more than a decade, including topics like curl types and vitamin E. For this article, Pai spoke to three dermatologists to narrow down the best peptide products to shop, and highlighted their recommendations about what to consider when shopping.